Launching a label is one of the most important goals of my life. Rather than a fashion label, it will be a dance music label though. In fact, as I work for a record label whilst my girlfriend works for a jewellery designer, the comparison between the fashion and music industries is always a 'heated' topic between us. The objective of our discussions is not to find out which of the two is better; instead, by finding out the similarities and differences between these two well-established industries, we can generate inspirations and insights for our careers.
To a certain extent, fashion and music are inseparable. It is by no means difficult to come up with examples of fashion-music bonding: Rappers Jay-Z and P.Diddy have their own fashion companies (Roc-A-Fella and Sean John respectively); Techno label Bpitch Control's owner Ellen Allien is a fashion designer; Karen O, the vocalist of the rock band Yeah Yeah Yeahs, wears outfit specially designed by Christian Joy, whose works were exhibited in the Victoria & Albert Museum in London a couple of years ago. And let's not forget Vivienne Westwood's ex-husband was the manager of the legendary punk band Sex Pistols.
And by the way, have you seen a catwalk show where there's no background music at all?
Indeed, fashion and dance music are similar in nature because both of them are driven by trends. So what are 'trends'? According to Toby Meadows, associate lecturer at London College of Fashion and the author of the book How to Set up and Run a Fashion Label (2009), 'a "fashion trend" can be defined as the movement of fashion over a period of time.... Fashion trends are all about the "latest" or the "newest".' One example that best illustrates this would be the creative director of Chanel and Fendi - Karl Lagerfeld. In the documentary Lagerfeld Confidential (2007), Lagerfeld says that he only wears clothes from the latest season and that it is a reflection of his passion for fashion.
As for dance music, iconic DJ Sasha once spoke of the relationship between trends and development of dance music: 'The whole reason why dance music might go through peaks and troughs but it never goes away... [is] because it always eats itself and then spits out a new sound, then it gets massive and then that eats itself and spits out something else. Dance music has always done that.' After the temporal surge of electro house in 2005, purist minimal techno dominated the house and techno scene in 2006. Since then the scene remained dark and techy, but in 2009 melodic and housey elements are on the rise again.
Despite the similarity in nature, the fashion and dance music industries have profound systematic differences. I am going to illustrate them from two angles: 1) fashion designer vs dance music producer; 2) fashion label vs digital dance music label.
+Fashion Designer vs Dance Music Producer
Nowadays in London, young fashion designers find it hard to survive in the fashion industry. It is not only due to the keen competition between the designers in the fashion metropolitan, but also due to the domination of large fashion companies. Cultural theorist Angela Mcrobbie once said in a lecture at Goldsmiths that large fashion companies like Topshop nowadays are eager to recruit fresh graduates from prestigious design schools like Central St Martin's and London College of Fashion, but they fire them after two years and recruit another batch of graduates again. In this case, young fashion designers can hardly have the opportunity to become recognised.
On the contrary, it is relatively easier for a young dance music producer to generate a breakthrough. Whilst the dance music industry is becoming more and more digitised, as reflected by the growing popularisation of digital music files and professional music software, prestigious DJs' music libraries are now comprised of tracks sent by both well-known and unknown producers from every corner of the planet.
The advantage of young dance music producers over young fashion designers is that they can send digital files to the prestigious DJs, who need new tracks to play all the time. Globetrotting DJs such as Sasha, John Digweed and Hernan Cattaneo tour around the world every weekend. Due to the accessibility of digital files, the files can spread widely with those DJs. When an unknown producer's track is selected by a superstar DJ to put into his/her live set or compilation album, the unknown will certainly become well-known within a short of period of time.
2 years ago Irish producer Greg Downey made a trance remix of the classic progressive house track 'Heaven Scent' without the permission of the original producers John Digweed and Nick Muir. He sent the track to prominent trance DJs like Paul Van Dyk, Tiesto and Eddie Halliwell, who really liked it and played it out, and then apparently the remix became a smash hit in the trance scene. John Digweed, who is also the owner of Bedrock Records, finally released Downey's remix officially on Bedrock Records in 2007.
+Fashion Label vs Digital Dance Music Label
Whilst being a dance music producer may be easier than a fashion designer, setting up a digital dance music label also seems to be a goal that can be reached more easily than setting up a fashion label. The key difference lies in the production process. In his book Meadow lists out the production process of a fashion label:
1. Researching trends, colours, shapes fabrics
2. Developing product designs
3. Ordering sampling fabrics and trims
4. Patterns developed
5. Toile developed
6. Product samples cut and sewn
7. Final sample collection selected
8. Selling season, order taken and production run calculated
9. Final product modification made
10. Patterns graded for sizes sold
11. Production of order
12. Quality control checks
13. Packing and shipping
It can be seen that in the process there are a lot of physical entities which require physical transportation. For example, in the early stage '3. ordering sampling fabrics and trims', fabrics are needed to be sourced and shipped even before the sample is made. And then when it comes to manufacturing of the product, certainly it will involve a great deal of physical mechanism and shipping that will take a lot of time. The same goes with product distribution. Furthermore, the above process is complicated by the 2-season-a-year wholesale and retail calendars (spring/summer and autumn/winter), which bring about an awful lot of deadlines to meet. If you want to establish a successful label then you will have to follow the well-established calendars of the fashion industry, which is not easy at all.
As mentioned above, the accessibility of digital music files on the Internet has speeded up the flow of music in the dance music industry tremendously. The duration of the 'shipping' of the files can be neglected when the sharing of materials is done online, whether it is getting samples or distributing musical products. In addition, although the dance music industry is driven by trends as well, it does not have a fixed or strict wholesale or retail calendar
like those in the fashion industry; therefore, there are fewer deadlines to meet, which may lead to better allocation of resources for the long-term development of the dance music label.
Of course, if you go digital then you will have to face the piracy problem, as it is undeniable that illegal sharing of music files online has imposed a devastating impact on the whole music industry (the definition of 'illegal sharing' needs to be explored though). Despite the fake Louis Vuitton and Gucci products all over the world, the problem of digital piracy is much more severe due to the accessibility of the files. How can we cope with that? High quality control of the product itself and marketing may alleviate the damage a bit.
Finally I want to objectively say that my opinion about the fashion - music debate could be to an extent subjective - as I am a DJ, it is natural for me to think that setting up a dance music label is easier than a fashion label. But I am not saying that doing the former is easy; we all know that the creative industry is cruel and competitive, as model Heidi Klum always says in the TV show Project Runway, 'one day you're in, next day you're out'.
+Nevertheless, I do believe that at the end of the day, it is your passion that truly matters. "If you’ve got talent and tenacity and you really believe in what your doing I don’t see any reason to give up because one way or another the stuff will start to stick and they will catch peoples ear. It is hard but it’s always been hard." -- Top-class DJ/producer Charlie May